Gold
Gold is the ideal metal for strength and durability. Because pure gold is very soft, alloys of gold, silver, copper, nickel, zinc and palladium are used.
Karats
The karat indicates the percentage of gold, with a higher number indicating more gold. There are 24 karats (24k) in 100% gold. 24k gold is too soft for making jewelry for frequent wear.
18k gold is 18 parts, or 18/24, gold. 14k is 14/24 gold. The balance is an alloy of one or more other metals.
White, rose and green gold
- White gold is a mixture of pure gold and other metals, often nickel. Palladium is commonly used in white gold in Europe and for hypoallergenic jewelry. Some white gold may include zinc, tin or, less commonly, silver.
- Rose gold is created from an alloy of gold, copper and silver. Varying the percentages of each metal changes the hue from lighter to pink or more red.
- Green gold can occur in nature when gold and silver deposits combine into a metal known as electrum. It still needs to be alloyed with zinc or nickel for strength.
Gold plated, gold filled and vermeil
Gold plated, gold filled, gold overlay and rolled gold plate (RGP) all refer to a layer of at least 10k gold over a base metal, usually nickel. 12k and 14k are also used for gold plating.
According to the FTC, gold plated items should be marked to indicate the karat quality of the gold and the type of plating, for example “14k RGP” or “12k gold overlay.” If the metal is more than 1/20 of the weight of the entire piece, the fraction should be marked on the item, for example “1/40 10k gold filled.”
- Gold electroplate uses an electrolytic process to layer at least .175 microns of at least 10 karat gold onto a base metal.
- Vermeil is sterling silver plated or coated with gold.
Rhodium plating
Rhodium plating, rhodium dip or rhodium flashing is frequently used on silver, white gold and palladium jewelry. It is resistant to scratches and tarnishing and adds a luster.
Silver
Sterling silver
Sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5% pure silver and copper. Look for the markings Sterling, S925, 925 or SS on jewelry to indicate sterling silver. If you do not find one of these markings, the jewelry is probably silver plate.
Eco silver is recycled sterling silver.
The ice test: silver melts ice much faster than silver plate or other metals. If a piece melts ice as fast as known silver, or faster than known silver plate, it is most likely silver rather than silver plate.
Silver plate
Silver plate is a thin layer of silver over another base metal, typically copper, brass or nickel. Silver plate items are usually marked EP, EPNS or Silver on Copper, or have no mark.
Test: if the metal is flaking or a magnet sticks to your silver item, it is silver plate, not silver.
Other silver standards
- 900 and 800 silver have a lower silver content than sterling. Quality silver from Europe carries hallmarks for the maker, purity and country (assay office mark). These hallmarks can be used to narrow down the age of antique silver, and some newer silver is marked with date letters.
- Argentium silver is 93.5% recycled silver and 6.5% germanium. Unlike sterling silver, it is hypoallergenic, tarnish resistant, more durable and stronger. It is shinier than silver, platinum or white gold.
- Britannia silver has a higher silver content than sterling. It is marked 958, which is exactly 95.84% pure silver. It is not commonly used in modern jewelry, but may be found in antique pieces.
Palladium
Palladium is more rare than platinum and twice as strong as gold. For jewelry, 95% pure palladium is alloyed with 5% silver, copper, nickel, chromium or manganese. It is highly tarnish resistant and a good choice for jewelry. However, it is considerably more expensive than platinum.
Identification marks on palladium are 999 (99.9% pure), 950 (95% pure) and 500 (50% pure), plus a maker’s mark and a convention mark. A five-sided pentagon shape with a curved base is the international palladium hallmark.
Platinum
Platinum is a naturally white precious metal ideal for making jewelry. It is strong and tarnish resistant, and is preferred as the best metal to safely retain precious gemstones. Because jewelry is made with 95% platinum and 5% iridium or cobalt, it is hypoallergenic.
To identify platinum, look for the markings Platinum, PLAT or PT and the purity indicators 950 or 999.
Alternative metals
These metals are popular in modern jewelry, especially men’s wedding bands, but none of them is a precious metal.
- Cobalt chrome is a hypoallergenic alloy made primarily of cobalt and chromium. It is the most durable bright white metal used for jewelry, polishes into a brilliant luster and requires no maintenance because it will not oxidize. It is more affordable than white gold or platinum.
- Stainless steel and blue steel are durable, lightweight and inexpensive, and last longer than most metals. Steel is not a precious metal and has little inherent value.
- Titanium is lightweight and stronger than precious metals. It is not rare, so it is not a precious metal or valuable.
- Tungsten carbide is stronger than titanium, tough, scratch resistant and naturally hypoallergenic. It is often found in men’s or matching wedding bands.
- Zirconium (black or gray zirconium) is naturally a silver-gray color. Heat is used to create a hard charcoal gray or black oxide finish. It is inexpensive.
Selling gold, silver or platinum?
Treasures Rediscovered buys any karat gold, sterling silver, platinum and palladium, broken or whole. See what we buy, or ask for a free evaluation.